You may have the universe, if I may have Italy.
Giuseppe Verdi
Rome.
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Alloggio (lodging).
From start to finish, Apartmenti MarcoAurelio49 was fantastico. They were able to organise an inexpensive (cheaper than Uber) transfer from the international airport to our hotel and they sent messages via WhatsApp to ensure that our trip was seamless. Our room was ready upon our arrival and it was in Archie’s favourite colour - green! I was pleased that the master bedroom was separate to Archie’s room and there was a mini-balcony that we enjoyed eating our breakfast on each morning. The provided breakfast is ordered the day before and the selection includes croissants, cereal, juices and toast, and extra coffee pods, of course. We simply collected the bag each morning and brought it back to our room for consumption. The kitchen includes everything you might need - a microwave, plates etc, stovetop, kettle and a fridge. We stocked it on our first day with cold Italian meats and cheeses as well as beautiful summer fruits. There is a laundry service for the mere price of 10 euros as well.
The hotel was located 5 mins walk to the colosseum and within a minute of many lovely restaurants. When it became time to leave, the hotel also organised a taxi for us to the train station.
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Tour.
Last time I came to Rome, as a young singleton 20 years ago, I could simply wander around and soak it all in. Those who understand children will know that’s impossible with an 8 year old! Having learnt from the tours we did in Egypt, I wanted to book a different type of tour. I managed to find an Italian company that designs tours especially for children called Pinocchio Tours. We booked 2 tours; the Colosseum and the Vatican Museums. We also looked into booking a day trip to Pompei but it wasn’t going to be doable in the short time we had in Rome.
Both of our tours were led by Alexandra (pictured) who is a teacher and incredibly knowledgeable about Roman history. On both days, there was a competition between the adults and the children and Alexandra awarded each team points for questions and answers - I had high hopes for the adults winning on the second tour, but alas, no luck ;) In both locations, we played ‘I spy…’ to find certain historical artefacts. Alexandra brought 3D printed pieces for the children to make a Roman arch that mirrored the one in the Roman Forum. She was responsive to the children’s needs, especially when it became very hot and tailored the tour so that we could be in the shade. Although the tours may cost a little more, you’ll learn so much and, most importantly, so will your children!
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Bere (eat).
You may think that all restaurants in Rome are made equal. Sadly, not. To find the best restaurants for your family, you’ll need to do a little research. Thankfully, I’ve started for you. The first restaurant that I would recommend is Angelino Ai Fori Dal 1947 right near the Colosseum. It was the perfect respite after a long and hot tour for us and the prices weren’t too hexy considering the location. The food was great and so were the drinks!
The second restaurant that we would recommend is a little hole in the wall (but with a small al fresco area) named Divin Ostilia Wine Bar. It’s quaint, delicious and has an extensive wine menu so that you can try a huge range of Italian wines. The pizza is amazing and the pasta is perfectly cooked al dente. The service is refreshing and understated - a lovely place for a family to end their evening.
Bellagio.
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Alloggio (lodging).
We adored our stay with Elena (our generous and kind host) at Aqua&Co Bellagio. Situated about 10 minutes drive from the centre of Bellagio, it was the perfect escape from the bustling tourist and influencer town that is Bellagio. The pool was a wonderful opportunity to cool off after long, hilly, picturesque walks through the area, where we would often sit and read as the afternoon breeze came in off Lake Como. Aqua&Co has 3 guest rooms for lodging and Elena and her family live upstairs so it has a B&B vibe. The breakfast that she creates each morning is varied and full of local produce so you’ll feel like you’re getting a real taste of the Italian Lakes. She also has sweet dogs that Archie loved playing with each day, he even took the dogs for a walk. Needless to day, pets are welcome. One of our favourite aspects was the honesty fridge, where you can grab a drink and tally it up for payment at the conclusion of your stay. It was great for days in which you had a big lunch and didn’t feel like walking to dinner. Elena can arrange laundry and transfers for her guests should it be required (both were required for us).
Nearby, about 1000 steps downhill (and uphill on the return journey), you’ll find the tiny town of San Giovanni that also has a tiny beach and a tiny cafe (with excellent coffee). The walks nearby are super cute with many photo-worthy spots along the way.
We booked through booking.com but Elena assures us that, if you book directly with her, you’ll get a more favourable price.
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Tour.
Getting to the Italian Lakes seems easy but, if you’re used to the efficient trains in France, Spain or the UK, the trains in Italy are terrible… there’s no information screens on the trains, the information boards in the station are wrong, and, if there’s a change with your train, there’s no way to find out about it (ask me how I know). A transfer to/from Milan is the easiest but also VERY costly ($300 each way with a van). If you decide to take the cheaper option, ask as many questions from actual people as you can in the train station, although don’t expect a friendly response. You can book your tickets online, in advance, but it might be easier to book at the station where you can talk to a person.
Getting around Bellagio and Lake Como can be a huge challenge in high season. There are A LOT of tourists, wannabe-influencers and instagrammers. Every ferry trip is overflowing, especially the fast ferry (or, as my dad likes to call it, el rapido). If you are booking a ferry anywhere around the Italian Lakes, check which ferry you’re getting on - the car ferry is fine, if you don’t have luggage. You cannot book the ferries online so your best bet is to line up with everyone else (which can take more than an hour in Como). If you’re travelling with luggage, book with the slow ferry - it’ll take you longer to get there but it’s much more spacious and you can buy food on board. There’s also the Bellagio On Wheels small train that you can get for $5 each that will tour you around (or take you close to Aqua&Co) which is popular and leaves approximately each hour.
One day, we took a car ferry to/from Varenna which was interesting (still very busy with tourists though). We had lunch by the water there and walked around Villa Monastero.
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Bere (eat).
We had a huge variety of dining experiences in Bellagio. Our favourite place was stumbled upon by chance (and a google search) and it was also the most cost effective. Just a 10 minute stroll from our lodgings, Al Corner Bar offers delicious pizza, yummy spritz’s and a view of the lake for approximately $7 per item. We loved meeting the locals and watching their interactions and the easy nature of the place.
On the other end of the dining spectrum is Ristorante Alta Vista at the Perlo Hotel. The restaurant offers a complimentary shuttle to/from anywhere in Bellagio and, despite the 5-star service, is reasonably priced. The view is spectacular and the overall atmosphere is relaxing in that famous Italian way. This restaurant is a must if you’re in Bellagio.
Somewhere in between these two restaurants is Pub Il Tiglio. It’s also a short walk from our lodgings and came recommended by our host. On Saturday night, they have a BBQ which, on the Saturday that we went, was American themed. The food is tasty and the Sangiovese is delicious. Although the service isn’t great, we recommend it for an easy night out.