The Ultimate Self-Drive Namibia Itinerary for Adventurous Families

Before landing in Namibia, I thought I had a handle on what was coming. I didn’t. This country is a masterclass in extremes: towering pink and orange dunes crashing into freezing Atlantic surf, blistering midday heat collapsing into puffer-jacket nights, and an astonishing proliferation of impressive facial hair (more on that later).

The Namibian sunset from Etosha Safari Lodge.

We were delighted that Peter from Zimtrek was open to planning the entire trip for us. Peter organised our vacation to Victoria Falls and it was flawless (read more about that trip here). Firstly, he was significantly cheaper than the other companies we had looked at and, secondly, he has the right level of communication and listening - not too much and not too little. We needed a signficiant amount of logistical assistance because we were travelling with 2 families with a range of ages… Peter managed it all so seamlessly.

Luckily enough, we live in Addis Ababa so our flight to/from Windhoek is one leg  and at a reasonable time of day. The one challenge is the cost- flying return to Windhoek is not cheap; you’re looking at over $1000usd each… in economy! But, once you’re there, everything is quite reasonably priced. 

Having been to a few African countries now, we’re used to this but it can come as a surprise that, in addition to purchasing a visa, you will also need to bring your child/ren’s birth certificates with you. This is all to eradicate child-slavery so the hassle is worth it! Also, print out and bring your flight itinerary, your travel itinerary, and your insurance papers. As always, check out your country’s equivalent to smartraveller.com.au for the entry requirements from your home of record.

Peter had arranged everything for our smooth arrival and once one of us had logged a missing bag, we were on our way (I hope this doesn’t happen to you because it takes up a lot of time). Regarding SIM cards, we decided to split the responsibility with some buying local sims at the airport, some doing e-sims through airalo (our usual go-to) and some going with Nomad sims. FYI The local sim is the best option; this time, Airalo was the poorest option.

One of the best experiences was the hire car situation. Peter had organised cars through Namibia2go with that whole experience like a well-oiled machine. The entry area was welcoming with space for kids while we did the paperwork and a thorough explanation of the vehicle and its various features… much more than one would normally get for sure! Each car came with plenty of space and a huge refrigerator which was perfect for lunchtime road-stops… which, incidentally, Namibia also has in spades. This country is built for a self-drive! It could have more fuel-stations though so plan accordingly.

This is the vehicle you get from Namibia2go.

Our first night (and our last) was spent in Windhoek which is starkly different to other parts of the country. Actually, every part is starkly different to other parts of the country! Boy, was this hotel a treat! We were put up in The Weinberg in a self-contained villa that came FULLY STOCKED with all kinds of food and beverages… and I mean, all kinds! As well as its own pool. The kids could not have been more pleased! We felt like royalty and it was super-lux before (and after) we got rustic on safari.

The beautiful villa at The Weinberg.

From Windhoek, we drove 3.5hrs to Swakopsmund (the name of a place that I practised for months to pronounce; swok-ops-mund). This was mostly highways and stuff, and we didn’t see much wildlife so we just enjoyed the time to chat and relax. Swakopsmund is about half-way along Namibia’s huge coast-line, below the Skeleton Coast (which we chose not to cover on this trip… makes a good excuse to go back!). The breeze is fresh… very fresh… and it’s quite a drop in temperature. So, we swapped our t-shirts for puffer jackets and shorts for jeans. Road-tripping through Namibia requires careful packing - wind-proof, sand-proof, water-proof, and sun-proof options are all required. 
In Swakop, we stayed at the delightful The Delight Swakopmund. It truly was a delight. The service was on-point and the rooms were designed with character and lightness. The kids especially loved the loft/studio level for their beds - there was definitely spying on the adults happening. One of my favourite parts was the breakfast - you could get your own ingredients for your omelette, there were oysters (there’s always oysters in Swakop), and champagne (there’s also always champagne in Swakop). 

Part of the breakfast spread at The Delight.

Our time in Swakopsmund was focussed on 2 things; water and sand. Our first day included both; a morning blue safari in Walvis Bay with Catamaran Dolphin Cruises where we saw seals, an overly-friendly pelican, dolphins, and even a humpback whale- so beautifully unexpected. After one of the most delicious lunches ever (including oysters and champagne), we headed off for our 4x4 sand-duning journey in nearby Sandwich Harbor. The bus was like a Transformer and was able to traverse the sand dunes with surprising ease. The kids also loved running across and in the sand. What a day that was! To top it off, Rob and I went for a delicious dinner at The Tug Restaurant which is in a restored tug boat. Such fun and excellent service as well.

This pelican’s coat in pink from the minerals in the sand and water.

Our second day was punctuated with more sand… and hills. We booked a half-day sand-boarding with Alter Action. And it was far more epic than we expected. There was certainly a moment, similar to when we zip-lined across the Zambezi River, when I wondered if I needed to attend parenting classes as Archie sand-boarded at 60 km/h down the hill and into the distance for about a kilometre. This was HARD work on the legs climbing up those hills and you’ll need hiking boots… not Birkenstocks like @smithfamilyadvernturers. You’ll also need a neck cover that can stretch up across your face and clothing that’s both for the wind and the warmth. But, it was something we’ll probably never get to experience again and the view of the desert touching the sea was incredibly special. And, heaps of fun obviously! We did purchase the photo and video package as well (not to mention the merch!).

This looks a lot slower than it was!

After an incredibly adventurous time in Swakop, we got back in the cars and made our way towards Etosha. It’s a journey so we had a one-night stay in one of the most random places I’ve ever stayed; Brandberg. Most people won’t know it - it’s actually a mining region. It was literally in the middle of nowhere - it’s surprising there was wifi… maybe there wasn’t. This place had a pool but it was rus.tic. Although, there was a meercat there which was super-special. We arrived just in time for sunset and dinner. Dinner is set and delivered to your table and the staff sung Rob Happy Birthday in the most beautiful voices.

Early the next day, we were on our way to Etosha. Fuel stations were scarce as were supermarkets so get anything you need in Swakopsmund and stop for fuel in Uis. The landscape totally changes once you arrive in the National Park. We were staying just outside the Anderson gate in Etosha Safari Lodge was our gateway to the great safari and boy, what a difference it was to Brandburg. The rooms were stunningly decorated and we were nice and close to the pool. The vista from the pool looks over the safari area so it’s fun to try to spot wildlife from the edge. It’s also fun to drink a beer at the edge ;). 

The view from the pool over Etosha National Park.

Although you can self-drive through the park, we chose to go with a guided tour - the guides have the best information and know the fastest way to get there. The park is organized around man-made watering holes at the end of a cul-de-sac - the animals all go there so there’s no need to travel cross-country destroying the ecology; everyone travels by road. Being on safari with this kind of system can cause bottlenecks (especially with the random Porsche tour group) but watching the interactions between the animals at the watering hole is so special. We saw zebras in the first minute and saw an unbelievable amount of elephant herd crossings. Our favourite was watching a lone lion swagger across the plains to the watering hole. His roar was terrifying even from kilometres away. We were surprised that none of the animals left, they just froze. No animals drank from the water for the entire 20 minutes this huge cat guzzled like an act of respect. Once the lion left, the other animals just went back to what they were doing before he arrived.

Photograph by Rob Love

A half-day safari was the perfect length of time for the kids and we all went back and chilled in the pool.

We finished the loop back in Windhoek with a final stay at The Weinberg. After stocking up on groceries, hitting a wildly satisfying post-safari KFC run, and concluding our informal study of the Namibian safari-beard phenomenon, we returned the cars and caught our flight home to Addis. If you have the chance to experience this wild, contradictory landscape for yourself, don’t hesitate for a second. For more details, vist our full webpage here.